A Texas-sized Thanksgiving
An Editorial by Cheryl
Bruedigam

We do
everything big in Texas and Thanksgiving is no
exception. Food, family and friends gather to create big
memories that last a lifetime, creating traditions to be
carried on.
Growing up in Texas, I
can recall many Thanksgivings when my grandmother had
the windows open, the sun was shining, and the sky was
crisp with autumn blue. And isn’t that why we love the
southwest? Isn’t that why many times the relatives
prefer to travel to our house?
But before the visitors
arrive, grandmother begins her vigil alone on Tuesday
making ahead the cornbread and pies. Sweet Texas
cornbread for the dressing; pumpkin, chocolate, and
coconut cream pies for the day’s starring desserts.
Grandmother’s sister will bring her annual fruitcake
which no one will touch, and if grandmother is feeling
extra energetic that year, she may include a
German-chocolate cake or a lemon chess pie.
Celery is cut, onions are
chopped, eggs are boiled; all stored for use later in
the old-fashioned dressing. On Tuesday, to my dismay, I
was assigned the much dreaded task of polishing the
silver. Grudgingly, I would remove the old wooden case
from its year-long cabinet residence, polishing until I
could polish no more. I doubt I ever did the job well
enough but grandmother never let on.
On Wednesday, the
cornbread was torn apart for the dressing and was at
least an entire loaf of good old Mrs. Baird’s bread, a
Texas favorite born in its Fort Worth hometown ovens not
twenty miles away. This was also my task. I would sit at
the kitchen table early in the morning, tearing the
bread into tiny, tiny pieces, watching them land as they
fell from my fingers into grandmother’s large aged cast
aluminum roasting pan, all the while feeling hostage to
Mrs. Baird (my children also experienced and dreaded
this tedious task as soon my grandchildren will as
well). I was then pressed to press the linens; white
linen tablecloth and napkins, which I carefully removed
from their resting place in my grandmother’s secretary.
Setting up the rickety old ironing board, I set about my
task. Ironing was better than polishing. I had to iron
the day-to-day linens weekly anyway; tablecloths,
pillowcases, handkerchiefs, all ironed by me.
Overnight visitors would
begin arriving Wednesday afternoon. Guest rooms have
been prepared and waiting, roll-aways come out of
hiding, and those heavy old sofa sleepers pull out the
one time a year they earn their keep. Children play in
the Texas sunshine as the women band together in a
Texas-sized kitchen to prepare a Texas-sized
Thanksgiving meal. The men sit at the kitchen table or
in the den; smoking, drinking coffee, watching football
pre-game shows and still arguing over who shot Jack
Ruby. Grandmother’s sister is among them, louder than
all, stubbing her lipstick-coated cigarette in the
horse-head ashtray. Grandmother shakes her head in her
silent laughter, recalling that her sister has always
been strong-headed and can out-argue any of them.
Ours is a true Texas
family, a
family of tough Texas cowboys whose lives were devoted
to the stock they rode, cared for, bought, sold,
exhibited and managed. A business and a lifestyle
mingled into one. Even the smell of the holiday fare
cooking on Wednesday evening did not escape our way of
life as it wafted throughout the house along with the
subtle scent of saddle-soap as my grandfather would
shine his dress boots for Thanksgiving day wear. There
were few females, we were numbered strong by the men who
made our family and our heritage what it was. My
grandfather, his brothers, my father and his brothers,
my brother and cousins, all were male, and all dominated
our household, except on Thanksgiving when grandmother
ran the show dictating from her kitchen as one by one
chores were completed, guests were made comfortable, and
little by little we inched our way to the big day.
Grandmother’s sister’s
husband would also attend and he was generally the
highlight of the holiday. Full of stories and everyone
loved to listen. He was not a cowboy though he wore
lizard-skin boots with his dress suit. He was a lawyer
from Tulsa. Very refined and the opposite of any man in
our household. Once settled in he would change into a
smoking jacket accompanying it with his pipe and cherry
tobacco. Though it never took much to heat the
conversation in our fiery Welsh blood, he was the
instigator of many heated conversations ranging from
politics to the plight of the working man. My uncles
were college-educated and easily followed along but it
was painfully clear at times that my grandfather, as
calloused as the hard Texas clay we lived on, could not
soften, though he try, to the seductive city-boy his
wife’s lively sister had married. They did have shooting
in common though and sometimes if the weather permitted,
we would all go out in the yard where they would line up
cans and aim to see who was the best shot. I was allowed
to participate until once when the gun kicked back so
hard it hurt me and grandmother said no more. Afterwards
it was back to the kitchen for me and grandmother.
On Wednesday several
salads were made ahead including cucumber/ham salad, pea
salad, fruit salad, pistachio salad and Jell-O fruit
salad. Thursday morning saw us up before the sun as the
turkey was prepared and placed in the oven. Our dinner
was usually served around one o’clock which meant the
turkey had to go in early. The cousins and I would
settle around the large black box of a TV and watch the
Thanksgiving Day parade in black and white never knowing
or dreaming of the rich colors that might actually be
parading by as we awaited the coming of Underdog,
everyone’s favorite.
The dressing was
finished, adding the eggs, the celery, the onions,
enough sage to completely cover the top at least twice,
and moistened with chicken broth (there was never enough
turkey juice to even attempt this feat so grandmother
bought canned broth). Sweet potatoes were cooked, mashed
potatoes (my grandfather had to have mashed potatoes),
were also made. More relatives would begin trickling in
on Thursday morning lending a little more help in the
kitchen which would result in the china being washed,
gallons of iced tea being made, rolls toasted and all
the trimmings completed
About an hour before
dinner I would set the long antique cherry-wood table
with the clean china, just-polished silver and freshly
pressed linens. Some years I would make little
place-cards, others I would top it with perhaps a
construction paper turkey made earlier that week in
school. My grandfather would be called in to slice the
turkey, it was his one contribution to the meal and when
we heard the sound of the electric knife we knew dinner
was almost ready.
Finally we would all sit
down to dinner. The table sat eight to ten, others would
eat at the kitchen counter, the small children at the
kitchen table and I don’t think grandmother ever sat at
all so busy was she refilling tea glasses, heating more
rolls and slicing pies. We usually had fifteen to
twenty guests.
After dinner, if the
Dallas Cowboys were not playing on Thanksgiving Day, the
horses would be saddled and we would sometimes ride till
dusk with the brisk November breeze, thankful for a
wonderful meal, the gathering of family and the
opportunity to commune with nature and our beloved
horses. Once the dishes were done, the women would
settle in for a cup of coffee, pie with whipped cream
and a good catching up.
The nature of our rural
Texas lives kept the men either outdoors or on the road
much of the time so gathering as a family was a rare
occasion and though they could agree on nothing when in
the same room, the one thing they could agree on was
that grandmother’s Thanksgiving dinner was more than
anyone could ask for. Though many of them are gone now,
her traditions and recipes live on as new generations
step forward, though not in cowboy boots, we continue to
walk her path offering family gatherings filled with
home-cooked love, good conversation and new memories for
our young to treasure as they too step toward their
futures and families.
*******************************************************************************
Editor's note: In the
twenty-eight years I spent with my grandmother, never
once did she vary from her menu and only once did she
not prepare the meal and that was one year that we
traveled instead to Red River, New Mexico, to join my
cousins for the holiday. Below is my grandmother's
menu:

Deviled Eggs |

Pumpkin Pie |
A Texas-sized thanksgiving Menu
Oven roasted turkey
Giblet gravy
Cornbread dressing
Mashed potatoes
Baked Sweet potatoes topped with marshmallows
Creamed corn
Cucumber/ham salad
Fruit salad
Pistachio salad
Jell-O fruit salad
Pea salad
Cranberry sauce
Rolls
Relish tray
Deviled eggs
Celery sticks stuffed with cheese spread
Pumpkin pie
Chocolate pie
Coconut cream pie
Lemon or Lemon Chess pie
German Chocolate Cake
Whipped cream
Iced tea
Coffee
| Marjorie’s Sweet Cornbread Dressing
2 pans pre-baked sweet cornbread
1 - 2 loaves white or wheat bread
3-4 medium chopped onions
6 - 8 chopped hard-boiled eggs
1 ½ bunch chopped celery
2 small cans chicken broth
ground sage
salt & pepper
Crumble cornbread
into large roasting pan. Tear bread slices into
tiny pieces and add to cornbread in pan. Toss
together until mixed. Add onions, celery, and
hard-boiled eggs. Mix well. Add sage to cover
top. Mix again. Add one can of chicken broth.
Mix well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir.
Begin to slowly add the other can if you like a
moist dressing stirring as you go, adding a
little at a time. Somewhere between 1 ½ - 2 cans
should be just right. Taste the dressing. You
may want to add more sage at this point. Taste
again. When it tastes just right, use a large
serving spoon or spatula to pack it down tightly
into the pan, evening out the top and sides.
Bake at 350 until edges of crust are brown,
about 30 minutes. Serves a crowd.
TIP - when
cutting the onions it is easy to go ahead chop
an extra onion for the pea salad. It is also
convenient to boil ahead all eggs at once,
leaving an extra egg for the gravy and extra
eggs to devil. Also, use the other
1/2 celery bunch to stuff with cheese or
favorite spread.
NOTE: In Texas we do not stuff the turkey.

My grandmother, Marjorie, Thanksgiving
1980
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