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The Timelessness of Grace
Martha Reed and her influence on Taos
Fashion
By Zandi Richardson
Martha Reed, one of Taos’s leading fashionistas
Photo courtesy Zandi Richardson
“I’ll be carrying on the tradition of Taos
well-dressed women. Taos has always had a great
influence on fashion, you know,” said Z Kastrin,
effervescent about this month’s opening of her expansive
new Jewelz of Taos location at 228B Paseo del Pueblo
Norte. Her plans to host fashion retrospectives, and
Meet the Designer salons got me thinking: What specific
icons has Taos contributed to the world of high fashion?
A classical Spanish fiesta skirt and a traditional
Navajo velvet blouse coalesce to adorn strong, elegant
women from Hogon to High Society heiress and Hollywood
starlet. This combination, inspired by an ingrained
appreciation for the valuable legacy of ancient styles
amalgamated with flare and daring color sense into a
modern fashion, was a passion of one of Taos’s leading
fashionistas: Martha Reed.
Original Navajo-style blouses by
Martha Reed - Photo courtesy
Zandi Richardson
I had the delightful pleasure to speak with Martha
recently, about her contribution to Taos Style.
In 1953, Martha moved into a Bent Street apartment in
Taos, as a graduate art student, from Oklahoma State
University in Stillwater, where her famous father, Dole
Reed founded and ran the art department. Mom and Dad
followed in 1959, purchasing the Talpa studio where she
now resides.
Martha’s pluckiness is still evident at 87, her dark
eyes sparkling as she tells me the story of how she
ingrained herself here as a young girl. “I walked into
the Pink Horse, a shop on Kit Carson, owned by a big
cowboy type with his hands in his pockets. I said, ‘I
want a job, so I can stay in Taos.”
So, he gave me a job. He didn’t even ask me what I could
do. Later, he said, “I like what you’re wearing.” I was
wearing a broomstick skirt in a color and fabric I had
designed, and my mother made. He asked me to make them
for him to sell.”
Martha channeled her artistic talent into creating more
fashions, and soon had her own store, the famous “Martha
of Taos,” which operated successfully for more than 38
years, nestled next to the historic Taos Inn. Martha
specialized in “fiesta skirts” in velvets, satins and
calicos in her lively color palette. She added beautiful
traditional Navajo velvet blouses to her collection.
These had multiple fastidious tucks across the back,
honoring the original Navajos: “They were given fabric
and thread by the government—but no scissors. So they
created the tucks to hide the frayed edges from the
knife cuts to pare down the yardage to size.” Martha and
her mother traveled to Gallup to collect old silver &
turquoise pawn pieces, butterfly-shaped spacers from
dismantled Concho belts, which she combined with 200
hand-made silver beads to adorn the blouses. She found
and hired native seamstresses who could do the
incredible tiny hand-pleats that form the last layer of
a real broomstick skirt (so named because it’s actually
wrapped around a broomstick to dry in the pleats.)
“I always told my customers never to wash their
skirts—They’d ruin them! Send them back to me to wash
and re-pleat. And send the skirts back to be shortened.
Don’t just cut off the bottom!” Martha showed me that
the skirts have an elegance of truth to them, maintained
in a mathematical formula: the bottom tier of fine
pleats consists of eight yards; the middle layer has
fewer, softer pleats in four yards of fabric; the top
layer is minimally pleated and only 2 yards at the
waist. This makes it much more flattering and less
bulky. Martha’s love of her craft is still fiery: It has
to be right! Which is probably why two of her skirts
were actually worn at functions at the White House (and
admired by President Regan.
From talking with Martha, and from what I know of
Millicent Rogers’ similar passion for combining
traditional indigenous style with haute couture, I may
have discovered the “Holy Trinity of Taos Style:”
1. Spirit: Spirit of the maker connects with spirit of
the wearer—a powerful bond.
2. Honor: Pride in workmanship and value for the legacy
of past artisans.
3. Love: Dignified love of this unique creative process.
If you want to test whether something has Taos Style or
not, ask yourself: “Is it something I will treasure
years from now?” Martha showed me some of the outfits
she made decades ago, and they’re still beautiful today.
I would be happy to wear one. Eventually, the fabric may
perish, but the beautiful silver pieces that adorned the
blouse will remain treasured keepsakes.
True Taos Style has nothing to do with fads, what’s in
or isn’t. It has to do with timeless elegance, grace and
the beauty of an independent Spirit.
Jewelz Grand Opening is July 31. Watch the windows!!
Shows, show tunes, salons with luminaries like Martha
Reed, and lots more in this new store and tea house
opposite Fechin! Call 751-9494.
| Sandra Richardson, aka “Zandi,” is an
independent fashion designer. To comment
on this column, or inform her of upcoming
events, email:
zandi@taosnet.com or call
575-751-1882. |
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Zandi Designs
Original Fashions
505-751-1882
P.O. Box 1798
Ranchos de Taos, NM. 87557
www.zandidesigns.com
Motto: Goddesses Don’t Iron
(most clothes are wash &
wear)
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