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January 2010
New Year, New You: Head to Toe

A new you begins on the
inside. First of all with the decision to move forward.
This decision happens in the heart and mind and sprit.
The mind forming ideas of what you would like to
accomplish. The heart providing the desire to do so, and
the spirit providing the determination and will to
follow through.
It is much easier to
instigate inner change if you begin a simple yoga
routine or are already practicing one. We have provided
a
link to a
basic routine to get you started. In
addition to the inner changes your new yoga routine will
bring about, the physical benefits will also set you
forth on the path to a new, healthier, fresher and more
energetic you. Conscious, extended breath into the body
carries oxygen further into the cells, propelling the
cells to more quickly eliminate toxins and healing
action as well as regeneration. Yoga is also a practice
that massages the inner organs which is something that
is vital to a healthy toxin-free body and cannot be
achieved any other way.
Diet is important to the
new you and affects your body head to toe. Review your
current eating practices. Look for bad habits,
overeating, processed foods, fast foods and junk foods.
Identify all of your problem areas then proceed to
correcting them. Replace addictive behaviors with
positive behavior, use your yoga! Meditate rather than
binge on chocolate, or take a walk when the urge hits.
Replace processed foods with as many whole foods as
possible.

Eat the orange rather
than have the sugary concentrated juice. Prepare oatmeal
or other breakfast grains using the whole grain instead
of micro-waving a small instant packet. Fresh vegetables
and salads are always wonderful. Invest in a vegetable
steamer and it will become your best kitchen friend
offering quick easy meal solutions to fast processed
foods.
Now that you are on the
road to a new inner you, begin to look at the outer.
What is your age? What condition is your skin in? Do you
live in the southwest with continual exposure to our
harsh, drying elements? What type of bath and personal
care products do you use? Are they harmful to your skin
and body? Have they been safely tested, how many
additives do they contain and what are they? Personal
care and hygiene is the foundation upon which we build
and enhance. Without a good foundation to start, then we
are piling problems upon problems, or just covering them
up.
Good personal care begins
in the tub. Hair care is an individual need based on
your hair type and should include a good shampoo for
your individual hair care rather than a generic "family"
bottle offering no specific benefits for your needs. If
you are unsure of your needs, consult with your hair
stylist for suggestions. Once you understand what your
needs are, then look for the best product to cover those
needs. Moisturizing for dry, brittle hair; or a system
for oily hair; frizz-control for thick frizzy hair,
volumizing for thin or limp hair, color protection and
so on. Include a conditioner that will not create
oiliness and depending on your hair type, it may or may
not be necessary to condition daily. A weekly
deep-conditioning treatment may also serve well if you
have damaged hair.
After bath hair products
such as jells, mousse, sprays, anti-frizz spritzes, are
available and can become overwhelming there are so many
to choose from. These are products that again may best
by being discussed with your hair stylist, not so much
for brand name but for the type of product that works
best for your needs. Some depend on the look you are
after such as mousse or jell.
Once your hair care needs
are satisfied, cleansing and exfoliation provide the
body base. A good shower or bath gel that is mild and
good for your body for cleansing is the first starting
point. Add a body scrub twice weekly to exfoliate. Soaps
can be drying to skin. After bath, to add a bit of
luxury, a scented powder and deodorant in your favorite
fragrance will serve to keep the scent through layering,
offering a subtle, softer, stay-with-you, rather than
over-powering fragrance that evaporates an hour later
causing you to need to re-apply.

Then a good non-greasy
moisturizing body lotion or cream, again in your
favorite fragrance, to soften and moisten the skin for
the day.
Moving on then from
personal care to skin care. A good
skin care regimen is
a must for healthy, glowing skin with as few wrinkles as
possible. A good diet and yoga will contribute much to
your skin’s health and you can assist further by taking
good care of it, again, especially here in our harsh
southwest climate.
Three steps will get you
started, cleanse, tone and moisturize. You will want to
select your products for your skin care as you did for
hair care, depending upon your individual skin and age.
Most people have one of three skin types: dry, oily or
combination. You must know your skin type to proceed in
selecting the best regimen for you.
Dry, flaky skin will
require moisturizing products, oily skin will want
products that are not oil-based, and combination skin
needs products that will treat both. With combination
skin, it is usually the T-zone that becomes oily after a
while. Depending on your age, you may want to add
anti-aging skin care products to your regimen. There are
many wonderful products available. Some even available
for use at home in a similar formula to those used by
dermatologists in correcting aging and wrinkles. These
can be expensive however so look for systems you can
sample as well as a satisfaction guarantee. Perform your
regimen morning and night with products suited for each
time of the day. Nighttime products may sometimes be
heavier for overnight deep work whereas daytime products
are formulated lighter for comfort and use beneath
cosmetics.
Now that your body, mind
and hair are well cared for, enhancing your most
attractive features and playing down any less attractive
features is your next step. The icing on the cake. This
will depend on your lifestyle. If you are an outdoor
woman, you may need higher protection and less glamour,
so opt for a good foundation with a high SPF for sun
protection, a little mascara and protective lip gloss or
balm, and you’re set. If you are not exposed to the
elements all day and prefer more glamour, you probably
already have a full cosmetic supply.
Now is the time to review
these products, their uses and applications, in
comparison to your needs and the effects you wish to
achieve. For starters, at least with foundation, it is
important to use a product that works in line with your
skin care products. If you are investing in a good skin
care program, you do not want to push on the brakes with
a foundation that does not perform at an equivalent
level. In other words if you are using a high end skin
care system and a drug-store foundation, you may be
sabotaging your own efforts. This is not so much true
with other beauty products but is so with foundation.
Not only with respect to skin care (causing breakouts?
Drying? Causing oiliness, clogging pores?) but also to
application, wear and the final effect (proper color for
your skin tone, a "make-up line", orange-i-ness,
blotchiness vs a smooth finish). There are some beauty
products you can skimp on but foundation is not one of
them.
Secondly, shade is most
important so select the shade most closely matched to
your skin tone. Do not do this on your arm or hand, they
are not the same color as your face. Do this on your
face. To test, place a smear of foundation from the
cheekbone down to jawbone then smooth in. If the color
blends in and disappears, it is the right shade for you;
if not, if color is visible, keep looking, it is not the
right shade. Foundation, in addition to providing a
protective base, is just what it says, "foundation." The
foundation for creating the look of perfect, natural
beauty and an oval shaped face.
To create the look of an
oval shaped face, you will want to contour prior to
applying foundation. Identify problem areas and your
facial type: already oval, square, round, heart-shaped,
triangular, are the most common. If you already have an
oval shaped face you will need little to no contouring.
Now look into the mirror, using the end of a make-up
brush, trace an oval around your face. The areas that do
not fit in are the areas traced are where you will need
to contour.
Contour with a light
colored to white cream (high-lighters or cream
foundations in various shades work best if you do not
want to bother with professional contouring products) on
areas that you want to bring out, contour with dark
browns in various shades for areas that you want to
recede. Harken back to Art 101, light reflects and
highlights, darks recede. Example, chin too long to fit
an oval? A dab of dark brown contouring along the
longest part of the chin, cutting it off so to speak
where the oval shape would be. Nose too long? Same
thing. Cheekbones not high enough? Contour just below
with dark to create the illusion of higher set
cheekbones with a light contour just above the dark.
Forehead to wide or too long? Narrow or shorten with a
dark contour. It is the same principle as using an
under-eye concealer which you have probably done.
Under-eye concealer is used to diminishes dark circles
beneath the eye. A lighter concealer is applied on them
so that the light brings out the recessive dark circle,
bringing about a balancing effect. Choose a concelaer in
your skin tone as well, you may go lighter for heavy
circles and darkness but stay in your color family.
Color families are lights, light to medium, medium,, and
darks. If you’re a light medium, don’t use a light
concealer, etc.
Once you have completed
any desired contouring, apply your base in a gentle,
upward motion, preferably using a cosmetic sponge for a
smoother finish. Again, make sure your foundation is of
a good quality so that it will not cause any skin
problems and will wear with a smooth, even finish. You
must also select your foundation according to your skin
type. Liquids for oily to combination skin; creams for
dry skin. The new loose mineral foundations are easy to
use and offer a lighter finish but if you have dry skin,
be sure to moisturize first (as you should have anyway)
or they will not stay on, they will simply fall off your
face. So also ask yourself what type of coverage you
want and need? Heavier or lighter? As we age too, our
needs can change and should change. If you are still
applying your make up the same way since you were
twenty, and that was twenty or thirty years ago, it is
time to re-evaluate. Thinner skin, wrinkles, crow’s
feet, laugh lines, aging, may have all set in and your
needs are different now. Contrary to what we may think,
lighter coverage with age may be better than heavier.
Heavier can actually emphasize those nasty lines and
wrinkles, making them even more prominent. Address these
issues beneath through your skin care regimen rather
than trying to correct them externally by applying
heavier coverage. Products tend to "hang" in the lines
causing an obvious build-up.
Drop just below the jaw
line to blend. Using the sponge, blend into the hairline
as well. Don’t forget the eyelids. For one, it will
serve to hold your shadow, and two, if you do not wear
shadow, you must have the same shade. If you plan to
apply lip color later, a good go over the lips, well
blended, will also hold the lip color longer. Set with a
dust of translucent powder.
Next move on to your
blusher. Select a blusher according to skin type. Again,
powder for oily or combination and cream for dry. Apply
to the top of the cheekbone moving backward in a
sweeping upward motion to the hairline, blend into the
hairline well. Use a good cosmetic brush for powder
blushes. Quality brushes will provide a smooth even
stroke, inexpensive brushes will lose the powder quickly
and not offer a long even stroke. Depending on your
contouring beneath or desire for a bronzed, sun-tanned
look, you may want to hit the top of the nose, across
the forehead and the point of the chin with your blusher
as well. Choose a color complimentary to your skin tone.
Nothing is worse than the wrong shade of blusher, it can
be very obvious.

Set with powder.
Shaping the eyes. Yes
shaping, not coloring, is the objective here. An almond
shaped eye is considered the goal, the perfect eye. You
will want to contour the eye to achieve this effect just
the same as you did with your face. Identify the problem
areas then correct with light and dark colors. Remember,
light highlights, dark recedes. Usually we are after the
look of deep-set eyes and this is achieved by applying
the darkest shade in the crease. With age however our
creases begin to darken naturally and again, if you have
not reviewed your application in a while, this is an
area to be reviewed and adjusted, perhaps not going as
dark in the crease as in previous years.
Do your initial shaping
with an eye-liner, preferably a soft pencil with a
smudge sponge on the other end. Liquid eye-liners are
obvious and out-dated unless you want to look like
Cleopatra or a sixties Jane Fonda. And unless you have
dark skin, forget the black. Subtle, natural, perfect
beauty cannot be achieved with a dark black eye-liner.
Perhaps on occasion for an evening event, depending on
the event, your coloring, your outfit and the look you
are after, then black can be doable on a fairer person.
Create the perfect almond
shaped eye with your pencil. Note: lining the entire eye
will close rather than open the eye. Only those with
already almond shaped eyes or very large eyes can pull
this off.. Line the full top of the eye from inner to
outer, extending only slightly and upward. Smudge.
Repeat if necessary. On the lower lid, line inward just
beyond the iris and stop. Smudge. Next apply eye color.
To create the perfect
eye, try to work with a trio of colors in the same
family in a range of medium, dark and light matching
well with your own skin, eye and hair coloring. Medium
on the lid, dark in the crease and light just below the
brow. The goal is to highlight the brow, not to color
it, so just a dab of the lightest shade to blend the
darker color and highlight beneath the brow. A good
eye-shadow brush works best and whether using a brush or
a sponge applicator, always tap off the excess color
before applying. Cream eye shadows can offer
longer-lasting wear but can be harder to control and
blend if you do not work fast because they dry quickly
and mistakes are not as easy to correct. Do not extend
color beyond the line from the end of the brow down to
the eye.
Lastly for the eyes,
apply mascara as you know. Again, unless you have dark
skin or medium skin, forgo the black, Stick with brown
or brownish -black for the most natural look, unless it
is evening and black can be acceptable, especially in
creating a "smoky-eyed" look on fairer skin.
Curl lashes first with
eye-lash curler, hold for five seconds at the base, the
re-curl the tips. Apply base coat, careful to even out
clumps and blotches of mascara. Re-apply second coat to
tips. One technique for an open-eyed look, is to apply
brown on the base coat, then tip with black. Waterproof
is best, never know when the tears will come or a rain
will catch you off guard.
Lastly, the perfect lips.
Recently a popular comedian made a joke for ladies to
please accept where your lips end. If lip liner is not
applied properly, it is too obvious. Remember to smile
when applying so the line doesn’t just end abruptly
later when you do smile. There are many looks for lips;
pouty and full, glossy and kissable, and so on. Select
the desired look. If your top or bottom lip is too thin,
correct with liner but not obviously. Set liner with
powder. For a full pouty bottom lip, line just below the
natural lip line.

Fill in with lip color.
Set with powder. Highlight bottom lip with a lighter
gloss to also achieve a pouty, full look. Less gloss on
top.
One last final light
dusting of powder all over the face to set your look.
Finish off with a dab of
your favorite scent for the final step in your fragrance
layering.
Our cover model provides a beautiful example of the
open-eye lining technique mentioned above, with her
liner stopping on the outer edge of the iris and a
frosty light highlight on the bottom lip for a big pouty
look and a soft, natural winter glow.
A manicure and a
pedicure, softened cuticles, and a clear protective base
coat provide a finished look. For a bit more glamour, go
for the color matching your skin tones. Tip: do not mix
a warm shade of nail color with cool shades of make-up
colors or visa versa, stay within the same hues. Cool
colors have a blue tone: Warm colors have a red tone.
That does not mean there are not warm blues and cool
reds, there are. Think of the sun and the moon. The sun
is warm, the moon is cool. This applies to choosing
clothing with make-up colors as well.
Viola! A new you, from
head to toe! Enjoy!
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Burn-out? Want to look and feel new?
Join our Editor and Learn About:
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