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Shiprock Small Town in a Big Pond by Miranda Cain


Shiprock Monument

Located off U.S. Highway 491, formally U.S. Highway 666, sits Shiprock , N.M. , a San Juan County town with a population of 8,156 people, according to the Census.  In a June 2005 press release New Mexican Governor, Bill Richardson said, “I’m pleased that after years of controversy, this issue which has plagued the Navajo Nation and Northwestern New Mexico has finally been resolved.”  

At the entrance to  the town, there is a small, two-story hospital, a handful of gas stations, a food market, and miles and miles of nearly empty to roads. The town is small and looks slightly worn down but the people who live there enjoy it*.  Most of the buildings are old, with peeling paint. There are no franchised businesses in town. There are, however, numerous homes that slightly resemble trailers, scattered within town limits.  The view is the only thing that captures a person’s attention. The sky runs on for miles atop a glorious dirt landscape. The mountain features that decorate the desert landscape on which the town was built are beautiful, large, and unique. They are the town's shining star.  

 

However, the superstitious name of a highway is not the only important issue for Shiprock, which is plagued with more serious issues like poverty and graffiti on the town’s most notable feature, Shiprock Monument.  Navajo people call the Shiprock formation the Tse bi dahi, or “the rock with wings.” The formation is 7,178 feet from the surrounding flat ground and has an elevation of 5,550 feet.

“This name comes from an ancient folk myth that tells how the rock was once a great bird that transported the ancestral people of the Navahos[sic] to their lands in what is now northwestern New Mexico,” said Cheryl Coleman in an email, a Shiprock resident. “The Navaho [sic] ancestors had crossed a narrow sea far to the northwest and were fleeing from a warlike tribe. Tribal shamans prayed to the Great Spirit for help. Suddenly the ground rose from beneath their feet to become an enormous bird. For an entire day and night the bird flew south, finally settling at sundown where Shiprock now stands.”  

Due to the sacredness of the formation, the Navajo Tribe is refusing to allow people to climb it, according to a pamphlet about the formation distributed by the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department.   Despite the importance of the formation, there is a significant amount of graffiti visible at the formation’s base.   “Many younger people have begun to find its ‘remoteness’ a place to gather and drink.  The drinking and other drugs used tend to create a need to ‘personalize’ their time there and also leave trash behind,” said Diana Cudeii in an email.  “However, there are tourists who also want to personalize their visit as well.” 

Cudeii, who works in private business as an oral health consultant and is a research study coordinator at UC Denver and a student at NAU, said that she thought locals who caused damage to the formation show a lack of respect for their tribal history.  “I’m not sure if anyone is taking care of the litter and graffiti around the Rock, maybe they should,” said Coleman. “I think people are dis-respectful [sic] for treating the formation like that.”  

The residents still cherish their land and town because Shiprock is more than just Shiprock Monument, it is a community.  “It's considered the largest community on the Navajo reservation,” said Cudeii.    


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